Plumeria: A Piece of the Tropics, Anywhere.

Aloha! The beautiful Plumeria, or Frangipani, is the heart of Hawaii. She’s a flawless flower of white, yellow, orange, pink, red, or a combination of these colors, but her greatest gift is her fragrance—the sweet, true scent of the tropics.

She means new beginnings, grace, and the powerful spirit of Aloha—love and welcome. When the Frangipani is weaved into a lei and placed around your neck, that spirit is shared with you.

With this blossom, you carry a piece of Hawaii's sunshine and paradise with you, no matter where you are. E komo mai—welcome! Embrace the sweet memory of Hawaiʻi.

Vibrant Pink Plumeria

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Type

• Indoor/Outdoor

• Easy to Moderate Plant Care

• Moderate Humidity (50%-70%)

The beautiful, fragrant plumeria thrives with simple care.

As a tropical plant, it demands full sun (8+ hours daily) for blooming and warm temperatures (65 degrees to 85 degrees is ideal). Use a well-draining soil mix to prevent root rot, as plumerias are succulent-like and store water in their stems.

During the summer growing season, water deeply only after the top inch or two of soil has dried out completely. Feed monthly with a high-phosphorus fertilizer to encourage flowers.

In regions with frost, grow in containers and move indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees. Plumerias will naturally drop their leaves during the winter and will grow back during the springtime when it gets warmer. Reduce watering dramatically during winter dormancy.

You can plant a plumeria in the ground or keep them in pots, repotting as they grow bigger. With that in mind the list below will target both methods.

Sun Needs

Plumerias require a lot of sun to thrive and, most importantly, to produce their fragrant flowers.

• Direct Sun Exposure Plumerias is an outdoor tropical plant that requires at least 6-8 hours of direct full sun to meet their needs and, most importantly, to bloom.

  
  

• Indoor Light Requirements Place them in the brightest possible room or supplement with a high intensity grow light to ensure they receive enough energy to bloom.

  
  

• Cautionary Note

  For extreme heat temperatures, inland climate can reach 100+ degrees, some afternoon shade may be beneficial to prevent leaves and flower buds from scorching. However, if adequately watered, it should be able to tolerate the heat.

  
  

• Cold Weather For plumerias planted in the ground, plant care requires special consideration. Plumerias are severely damaged or killed by freezing temperatures below 32 degrees F. More information under the Tips and Other Notes section.

Water Needs

As with all plants, the water needs for a plumeria change dramatically between the growing season and the dormant season. The most critical rule is to avoid overwatering at all costs, as this is the primary cause of death for potted plumerias (root rot).

The frequency of watering a plumeria during its growing season (spring through early fall) depends less on a set schedule and more on the heat, sun exposure, and whether it is in a pot or the ground.

The golden rule for plumerias is: Water deeply, then allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Below is a table to help you understand the watering needs of plumerias.

Season / Location	Key Requirement	Frequency	Signs of Watering Need (Check Soil First!)
Growing Season (Spring/Summer) Outdoor/Potted	Moist, then Dry. Plumeria needs consistent moisture to support its large leaves and blooming but absolutely cannot sit in soggy soil.	Every 1-7 days.	Underwatering: Leaves wilt or droop dramatically, become dry and brittle, or the entire stem/plant begins to wrinkle.
Growing Season (Spring/Summer) In-Ground	Drought-tolerant. Established trees have deep roots and require much less frequent watering than potted plants.	Every 7–14 days or less, depending on rain/heat.	Underwatering: Leaves turn yellow and drop excessively; wilting during the hottest part of the day.
Dormant Season (Fall/Winter) Indoor/Potted (No Leaves)	Stop watering. Dormancy is triggered by cooler weather and shorter days. The plant stores its own water and should be kept dry to prevent root rot.	Once a month, or only when the stem/trunk appears severely shriveled.	Overwatering (Severe Risk): Stem becomes soft or mushy, especially near the soil line.
Dormant Season (Fall/Winter) Indoor/Potted (Retained Leaves)	Minimal Water. If the plant retains leaves indoors due to warmth, it is not fully dormant, but its growth is very slow.	Every 2–4 weeks—just enough to keep the soil from becoming bone-dry.	Overwatering: Yellowing leaves that are soft and fall off easily (most common mistake).

How to Check Soil

• Insert your finger two to three inches into the soil to gauge moisture; it should be dry at this depth before watering again. If it still feels moist or cool, wait a few more days and check again.

  
  

• You can also use a chopstick or moisture meter for a more accurate reading, but avoid letting the soil become completely dry, as Alocasias prefer consistently moist but not soggy conditions.

Soil and Fertilizer Needs

• Soil

  The absolute most critical requirement for a plumeria's soil is excellent drainage. Plumeria stems and branches store a lot of water, making them highly susceptible to root rot if they sit in wet soil.

Condition	Soil Type	Key Goal
Potted Plumeria	Fast-Draining mix (like a standard cactus or succulent potting mix, amended with additional materials to ensure excellent drainage, like perlite).	Prevent Root Rot
In-Ground Plumeria	Naturally sandy or loamy soil with good percolation.	Ensure water doesn't puddle and drain away quickly after a heavy rain.

• Fertilizer Plumerias are heavy feeders during their active growing season (Spring through early Fall). There are many brands of fertilizers specific to plumerias in the market, it is recommended to purchase one that is high in phosphorus.

Season	Fertilizer Type	Frequency
Growing Season (Spring/Summer)	High in Phosphorus	Every 2-4 weeks during active growth
Dormant (Late Fall/Winter)	No Fertilizer	Stop completely. Fertilizing during dormancy can lead to root rot or unnecessary, weak growth that is susceptible to pests and cold.

• Essential Supplements

  
  

  • Micronutrients: Plumeria benefits from a balanced fertilizer that includes essential micronutrients like Iron, Manganese, and Zinc.

    
    

  • Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulfate): Applying 1-2 tablespoons per month during the growing season (mixed in water or sprinkled around the soil) is highly recommended. Magnesium is key for chlorophyll production, leading to better foliage color and overall plant health.

  
  

• Rule of Thumb: It is better to under-fertilize slightly than to over-fertilize, which can lead to chemical burn on the roots. Always follow package directions and water thoroughly before applying fertilizer to potted plants.

Tips and Other Notes

• You Can Propagate Plumerias Through "Cuttings" A cutting is a piece of plant's vegetative material (usually a stem, but sometimes a leaf or root). You literally cut a stem/branch from a plumeria! There is a process to its growth, but this is how a lot plumerias are propagated.

  
  

• Cold Weather Considerations for In-Ground Plumerias

Cover the Plant (Frost/Light Freeze)	Use Frost Cloth or Blankets: Completely drape the plant with a frost cloth, burlap, or old sheets/blankets that reach the ground to trap heat radiating from the soil. DO NOT Use Plastic Alone: Plastic can damage the plant if it touches the foliage or stems, and it can collect too much heat on a sunny day, essentially "cooking" the plant if not removed.
Add Heat	Incandescent Lights: Wrap the branches with old-style (non-LED) Christmas lights or place an incandescent spotlight aimed at the trunk/branches under the covering. The heat generated by these bulbs can raise the temperature underneath the cover enough to save the plant.
Protect the Root Zone	Apply a thick layer of mulch (3-4 inches deep) around the base of the plant to insulate the roots from the cold.
Sustained Freezing	If you expect a hard or sustained freeze (temperatures in the 20s or below for more than a few hours), even a covering may not be enough for in-ground plants. In areas with such cold, plumerias are typically grown in pots so they can be moved indoors or into a garage/greenhouse for the winter.

• Common Issues
  

Issue	Cause	Fix/Prevention
No Blooms (Failure to flower)	Not enough sun, too much nitrogen fertilizer, or the plant is too young (cuttings take 1–3 years to mature).	Move to a location with 6+ hours of sun. Switch to a high-phosphorus fertilizer.
Yellow Leaves (Chlorosis)	Common in Fall: Natural dormancy. Growing Season: Overwatering, underwatering, or nutrient deficiency (often iron/magnesium).	Dormancy: It's normal. Growing Season: Check soil moisture. If soil is dry, water deeply. If moist, stop watering. Add Epsom salts (Magnesium) to the soil or water.
Black Tip (Fungus/Rot)	Cold, wet, and humid conditions (most common in spring after dormancy).	Prune and Seal: Cut the black tip off until the cross-section is entirely healthy white wood and white sap bleeds out. Wipe pruning tools with alcohol between cuts. The plant will naturally branch out from the nodes below.
Plumeria Rust (Orange spots)	A common fungus found on the underside of leaves, especially in humid climates.	Remove affected leaves immediately and dispose of them (do not compost). Treat with a sulfur-based or copper-based fungicide. Improve air circulation.

• Sap Plumeria plants contain a milky white sap (latex) that can be a mild irritant to the skin and eyes of sensitive people. Wear gloves when taking cuttings or pruning and keep it away from pets/children who might chew on it.

  
  

• Pests Plumerias are fairly resistant to pests. Do your due diligence and inspect regularly, quarantine new plants, provide good airflow, and hos it down. Most common are spider mites or sucking insects.